Castle Rock Right Eight Climbs With a Great View

This large face is easily seen from the road. This face has been fractured by geological processes, however, huge exposure and commanding views are the rewards for climbing this side of Castle Rock.

  1. Pulsating Python 5.5 Trad or top rope
    Follow the wet-facing chimney through to the top. For a variation, step out of the chimney halfway up and follow the face to the top.
  2. Fallace Palace 5.7 Trad or top rope
    Variation between Pulsating Python and Have a Cigar. Stay on the face to the summit.
  3. Have a Cigar 5.8 Trad or top rope
    Step off Old Classical at the first tear to the left and look for the old ring piton. Climb past the piton to a small ledge and look up to the right for another piton 4 feet away. Traverse past the piton to another one directly under the large overhang. Four feet to the right is another piton. Traverse to the corner (crux) and climb out to the top.
  4. Old Classical 5.4 Trad or top rope
    Obvious weakness that flows to the right through the face to the top.
  5. Motorhead Direct 5.8 Trad top rope
    Variation of Old Classical between the first and second ledge. Step out to the right after the first ledge and up the face to the second ledge.
  6. Eldorado 5.6 Trad or top rope
    Follow Old Classical to the first ledge and traverse to the right. Before rounding the arete, climb the west face to the second ledge, and take Old Classical, Schwitterriss, or Have a Nice Flight to the top.
  7. Schwitteriss 5.7 Trad or top rope
    Climb up Old Classical to the second ledge and traverse to the right following in the horizontal crack. Before rounding the corner, climb the west face to the top.
  8. Have a Nice Flight 5.7 Trad or top rope
    Climb up Old Classical to the second ledge and traverse to the right following in the horizontal crack. Then climb up the exposed, overhang arete to the top.